There’s more to like about Effin Beauty than the name (although, let’s be honest—the name is great, too). Here’s a gastropub you can really sink your teeth into.
Actually, the name is kind of inherited. What stood here before, in Bellmore, was Effin Gruven—a beloved spot dedicated to craft beer. Effin Beauty carries on that tradition, although they’ve expanded their reach. Effin Gruven occupied the space for twenty years, so it needed an experienced hand to take it over, which was where Michael Cassano and Maria Pallotta—owners of Massapequa’s American Beauty Bistro—came in.
Effin Beauty opened in late June. The owners brought on chef Francisco Canales, who offers a millennial-friendly food sensibility (avocado caprese, avocado fries, veggie burger with avocado—you get the picture). It is a gastropub, to be clear. The steak tartare is a don’t-deviate-from-the-classic tell: chopped steak, egg yolk, capers, chives, and red onion. Expect the crab cakes to arrive with a remoulade. Expect the prosciutto-wrapped figs to feature balsamic vinaigrette. Classic is good. Classic is classic for a reason. Take the expected and run with it. These are delicious options. Millennials, take note: Even the avocado is good.
Beers are plentiful, both on tap and by the bottle. But the classic cocktails are also not to be ignored. There are few instances in which I would turn down a painkiller, a potent blend of dark rum, pineapple juice, orange juice, crème de coconut, and nutmeg—garnished with a cherry. Here is not the place to turn it down (but don’t opt for a second, either—well, not if you’re driving, at least). This new-old addition (or extension?) in Bellmore is just what we effin needed. It’s effin beautiful.