Two men named Tony own the several Eastern Long Island sushi restaurants: Tony Asta, a relative novice in the business, and Tony Liu, usually found at the East Quogue location, but in charge of the East Moriches site.
The menu showcases Chinese, Japanese, Thai and other Asian specialties, reflecting Liu’s experience, but the desserts point to Asta’s Italian heritage instead. “Fusion,” however, doesn’t refer to a crossover of cuisines, but to the availability of ethnic choices: there are four pages worth of selections! If you can’t find something to satisfy you among the steamed, stir-fried, sautéed, grilled, mild-to-red-hot appetizers, main dishes and sides, plus the new hibachi plates, you probably don’t belong here.
The East Moriches restaurant, at the corner of Main Street and Atlantic Avenue, has been relatively recently expanded, with a long bar and lounge on one side, and a front-to-back window-lined dining room on the right. The new hibachi installation is at the rear of the dining room (where the sushi bar used to be). Takeout service is at the bar, which fronts the large new kitchen. There’s now an entrance from the parking lot, where picnic tables are popular in warm weather.
The menu is really broad, with twenty-eight lunch specials, twenty combo platters, twenty-five chef’s specialties, and a generous selection of choices for do-it-yourself dieters to combine, and this is just the Chinese menu! The lunch plates are $5.99 each, with roast pork fried rice, soup or egg roll. The same sides come with the $7.99- $8.99 platters, while the chef’s specials- $11.99- $18.99 for the Black Pepper Filet Mignon are served with white rice. The a la carte selections cover the entire back page, culminating in Peking Duck and Crispy Duck Hong Kong style. I can vouch for either duck dish, having enjoyed them multiple times. The Peking Duck is comparable to any New York Chinatown fare.
Once you open the menu to the center pages, you may need extra time to choose. You can sip a cocktail and take your time. I’ve always found the service to be most acceptable, even when the dining room is full and we’re a party of eight. The waitstaff is attentive, but they don’t hover. Your server will ask if you want water. It’s not a given. It’s requested as you order your drinks, non-alcoholic, potent, or pot of tea. The servers are usually on top of refills. You also need to specify when you want your food served, if you have mixed appetizers and main dishes, as we do when my family eats here.
We all love to share the appetizers, especially Tung Thonh Golden Bag, crispy dumplings with plum sauce ($5.95); Roti Chani, Malasian pancakes with curry sauce ($6.95); Thai Spring Roll (6/$4.95); Vegetable Gyoza (4/$4.99) and Grilled Satay with peanut sauce (4/6.95).
For our entrees, we like to order the Kaeng Ped Red Curry ($13.50); Kaeng Keiw Warn Green Curry with chicken, extra-spicy and hold the eggplants ($16.50) or Duck Panang Curry Sauce, super spicy ($17.95) for me.
But whatever we order, my family, friends, and I always enjoy our time—and meals—at Tony’s in East Moriches. And even though it’s close to home, we’ve made it something of a destination.