SOURCE: Fish on (Good) Friday

Kevin Halton with a striped bass.

Kevin Halton with a striped bass.

As Christians on Long Island prepare for Easter weekend, fishmongers islandwide are preparing for a run on their ice-lined cases. Fish on Friday is a religious tradition throughout Lent and especially on Good Friday, which this year falls on April 3.

We like Two Cousins Fish Market on the Nautical Mile in Freeport. They have been around since 1969 when it was founded by the original Two Cousins, the Hronchics, immigrants from the area around Trieste and Croatia.

Three generations later, they welcome folks who know their seafood and are helpful when customers need guidance. So they don’t bat an eye when we walk in waving our Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch Guide or, more recently, the Seafood Watch app and the latest Edible Long Island, which has a “What’s in Season” list on page 41. We did a little cross-referencing of our lists and Kevin Halton, who was running the show that afternoon, walked us around pointing out the best choices for sustainable local seafood, which included striped bass (line caught is your best choice, according to Seafood Watch), black bass and porgies. There is also flounder and fluke from Montauk and local clams: little necks, top necks, cherries and chowders. Some other Easter weekend favorites come from farther afield: snapper and kingfish from the Florida Keys, for example.

Give the local porgies a look. Halton says they are especially good on the grill or pan-fried and at $2.99 a pound are a terrific value. But arrive early Thursday and Friday if you want to get the best advice. It will be busy!

“It will be wall-to-wall in here on Friday,” says Halton. Two Cousins will be open Thursday and Friday from 8 a.m. – 5:45 p.m. and offers free cleaning and fileting of fish for your Good Friday meal. They also have prepared soups, fishcakes, baked clams, seafood salads and any seasonings and sauces you might need. Bring the kids; the live tanks are always a big draw.